OUR VACATION WAS A TRIP!
By Frank R. Satullo

 

Our staycation required passports even though some of us were no more than an hour from home when we took the ferry out of Sandusky, Ohio. When we left, there was only one ferry per week to Pelee Island. It was 9:30 at night.

The white-capped waves made for a turbulent hour and 45 minute crossing. The nine of us staked claim to benches below and then went on deck to the stern of the ferry and others to the bow where the kids returned, soaked from head to toe. Calls of “Mom, I’m cold” turned to, “Mom, I think I’m going to get sick.” Then, grandma did. Everyone ended up together, below, eyes closed, sprawled out on benches trying to resist grandma’s fate.

When we landed, the customs agents pulled up in a car, asked some questions and let us into Canada.

Once the sun rose, we hit the beach, right out our back door. The waves were big enough to dive into, flip over or ride a bit. We weren’t alone. Joining us on the beach and in the water were numerous Lake Erie Water Snakes. They say they are an endangered species but you wouldn’t have known that looking around. It was a little creepy seeing snake heads peeking out of the water or three or four coiling together on the beach. To my amazement, it didn’t stop anyone from the watery fun. None-the-less, we didn't see them in the water or on the beach after the first day.

Next came the bike ride from hell! We had a destination in mind but didn’t quite make it. Black flies were a nuisance almost from the get-go but progressively got worse. Our group split into two packs, one riding faster than the other. My group was way out in front – something we would soon regret! The black flies swarmed us at the end of the road where a trailhead picked up. We had no choice but to turn tail and ride like the wind as fast as we could to try and escape misery. But misery was glued to us. When we flew past the slower-paced riders, the kids were screaming in pain from the constant biting and by all accounts, white shirts looked black and the swarm around us was described as a cross between a bee-keeper blanketed in bees and Pig-Pen from Peanuts. It was sheer terror for two miles. Fortunately, the wind changed and black flies were a thing of the past the rest of our stay.

That night, the kids asked if they could sleep on the living room floor because they spotted a “humongous” wolf spider in one of their beds. We searched for it and said it won’t be back. The four of them reluctantly went back to their beds only to wake and see that one of them rolled over in the middle of the night and crushed the wolf spider dead. It was a whopper, even smashed.

After a sizeable thunder storm had passed, the sun was out and so were we. This time, it was to the winery where we barbequed and sampled the local vintage. We chased it with a stop at the ice cream shack and headed for the historic lighthouse. En route, we happened upon a large Inukshuk surrounded by dozens, maybe a hundred smaller ones. We spent time making our own to add to the growing community of stone stacked beings that resembled a peculiar shoreline invasion. Further down the road we made another pit stop. This time it was to inspect the shoe tree. Yes, a big tree fruitful of sneakers and other footgear tied and strewn over branches everywhere. It was picture-worthy.

The restored 1833 lighthouse was a beautiful sight as we approached the point from a pleasant long walk along a beach. The architecture seemed unusual with very long, thick, weathered wood planks wedged from the ground diagonally into the sides of the tower. For photographers, it was a dream. Plenty of interesting angles and vantage points encircled the lighthouse which was nestled amongst foliage that added to the uniqueness of the scene.

The eerie tale of Hulda’s Rock had us out on another adventure after days of swimming and biking. Venturing to the far side of the island we first stopped to see the ruins of a winery built in the 1860s. It was destroyed by fire leaving tall stone walls and pillars rising up with the trees now intertwined with it. The problem was that the structure was inaccessible due to newer, jet black wrought iron fencing that seemed to be 12-feet high and went on for as far as the eyes could see, disappearing into thick woods and eventually to the shoreline that claimed two sides of the vast property. We still managed to get some nice views of it with our cameras.

Now, about Hulda’s Rock. We had a map so we were pretty sure we were on the right track. But we went deeper and deeper into the woods and the trail became hardly visible. Eventually, we ran into that darn wrought iron barrier. We followed it to a private residence where we had an opportunity to ask someone. The conversation started with, “I’m sure you get this a lot but …”, which was met with a nod. Long story short, the old winery ruins were purchased with a plan to turn it into a high-end spa. But, the winery grounds, which were now off limits, were the only land route to Hulda’s Rock. Anyway, the tale and picture of Hulda’s Rock is worth a look and read

Another day away from shoreline play took us to the Pelee Island Heritage Centre which also doubled as a kite museum with a few prized possessions. One of which is a kite signed by the author of The Kite Runner. It was a small but interesting stop. The find of the day though was the island bakery. It’s the only game in town but their baked goods could rival the best on the mainland. It was no secret either. I don’t think I saw more people in one place on the island than at the bakery that day. Other stops included an art shop, eating out at a restaurant – one of only a few and far between. Fortunately, we knew enough to bring plenty of groceries because the only thing close to a grocery or general store on the whole island was a co-op that offered some essentials but not much more.

If you spend enough time on Pelee Island, eventually you’ll seek out things like the Glacial Grooves. It was another wild adventure on an overgrown trail that prompted a scream, “I just stepped on a snake!” And for those that didn’t believe the 10-year-old’s claim, they too would be face-to-face with unexpected and startling encounters with our slithery islanders, something we hadn't contended with since the first day. The shoreline here was loaded with flat pieces of limestone so as you walked it, you had to find your footing on top of one rock to the next. Through the many crevices, there were more than a few snake sightings.

Everything on the island is bikeable even though we ferried our cars too. One of our last bike rides covered most of the island and led us to Fish Point. A well-kept nature trail provides a nice walk through wetlands, woods and eventually out to a sandy beach where you turn and go about as far south as you can and still be in Canada. Once you're where the beach forms a point, waves come at you from two directions. Be sure to look around for beach glass.

This island adventure is pretty laid back and recommended for those that truly want to regenerate their internal batteries. There is just the right combination of relaxation and mild adventure to occupy a week’s stay. But at the end of the week, your arms will need a rest from this vacation. That’s because every, and I mean every, time you pass a vehicle or pedestrian, you are compelled to return that friendly island wave.  

By Frank R. Satullo, The OhioTraveler

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